Permanent UFO

Anybody still check to see if I post updates here? It's been a few days shy of a year since the last time I posted. It's not news to say that this blog has been basically abandoned. Well, now I'm making it official.

***For the foreseeable future, I have no plans to continue this blog.***


I'm not taking it offline, since I have several free patterns available here, with links from Knitting Pattern Central and other places, and I still get considerable traffic because of them. I'll even keep moderating comments and responding to any emails sent in regards to content. I won't, however, be writing new posts; and the biggest difference is that I'm going to quit feeling guilty about this negligence.

Quite frankly, I think the reason things got slack around here is Ravelry. I don't mean to disrespect Ravelry, because I think it's one of the greatest things to happen to knitting... well, since cables were invented. Looking back on it, though, it was approximately when I became a member that my blogging frequency began to collapse. It makes sense. I mean, probably the biggest reason I started the Chronicles here was to document my knitting for my own purposes. That plus a little bit of showing off, and sharing an occasional pattern with the world. Ravelry makes all that available plus so much more, and in such a more organized and useable fashion than the basic blog format. The blog became a redundant formality and didn't have much new content to offer. I go through cycles of varying degrees of diligence on Ravelry but I do try not to let my completed projects get too far behind. So if you really want to keep up with my knitting endeavors, you can find me there: my username is Caramcb. If you send me a message I will probably even friend you.


*******Edited on 11/6/11: content deleted. I wrote about a big upheaval that was coming in my life, but things changed and it no longer applies. Because of the nature of this event, it is sort of awkward for me to keep the announcement thereof as a post on this blog. It just isn't the place for rehashing all of that.

Thanks to everyone for reading. Happy knitting to all.
~Cara

Pomaire Market Bag

Pattern: Lean to the Left Bag, by Kate D'Ettore

Yarn: Araucania Pomaire Multy (cotton) - exactly 1 skein

I knitted this as part of Ravelympics 2010 "Bag Jump" event. It was a quick and easy project, at just 3 days of Olympics-watching-time. And it's hard to argue the appeal of the "green" produce/market bag, especially in a gorgeous yarn like this one. I just may have a new go-to project for last minute gift knitting.

This was also a stash-busting project. I bought the skein of Pomaire back in Jacksonville, if I remember correctly. I had no plans for the yarn, it just struck me in that way that special yarn does.

The only change I made was making it a little smaller (since I only had a single skein of the yarn in my stash), and making two shorter handles instead of one long strap. The pattern calls for afghan crochet for the handles, which was the first time I've used this technique. I enjoy the resulting fabric, it seems to be nice and strong, and looks neat as well.

My Refined Aran Jacket

I started working on this sweater back in the late summer. It was bumped many times for projects with deadlines, gifts, and so on. Finally it's finished, and with plenty of "cold" weather left this winter.

Pattern: Refined Aran Jacket, from Interweave Knits Winter 2007. No modifications.

Yarn: Miss Babs Yummy Superwash Sport 3 Ply, in "Denim" colorway, 6 skeins. I picked it up at Stitches West last year. I really love this merino, it has a great look when it's all knitted up. The slight variegation came out nice, adding interest while still looking dignified.

The pattern was pretty challenging in the way that it was written, and one really has to read the whole thing through before getting started. There's lots going on at once, between forming the collar, shaping the waist, inserting the pockets, shaping the arm... and one section will start before the last one finishes. I had to take lots of notes to make sure my fronts matched up right. That being said, I'm very pleased with how it turned out, although I think I need to take some further measures to get the collar to stay folded over the way it's supposed to be. Blocking alone doesn't seem to have cut it.

Alfonso, the Charming Knitted Monkey

Originally I designed this pattern for a friend's baby, and then I liked it so much that I made a second one (with some slight adjustments) for myself! I've added the pattern to Ravelry, so for a few bucks you can make one of your very own.

"Alfonso"

"Mortimer"

Yarn: For "Alfonso" (the one that matches the pattern), I used Plymouth Galway Worsted, one skein of light green and less than one skein of tan, plus a little bit of black for the eyes and nostrils. For "Mortimer" (the first, practice one), I used Mission Falls 1824 Cotton, one skein of green and less than one skein of natural, and the same black. If you're making your own, any worsted weight will do, really, but washable is recommended if the monkey is going to be for a kid.

Needles: For both, I used size 3 dpns.

Pattern: You can download a PDF of Alfonso from Ravelry for $3. (Or, view the Ravelry page first, and THEN buy it!)

Monterey Sea Otter

I designed this sea otter for my friend Kristy. Kristy has been my cataloging cubicle mate and partner in crime for the last year, and now she's leaving Monterey. She's going to be a fantastic teacher in the near future, and already has a collection of otters and other stuffed sea creatures for her classroom. This little fella' should be right at home with his squooshy cousins.

Yarn: Plymouth Yarn's Galway Worsted & Highland Heather Worsted, one skein of brown and part of a skein of tan, plus some leftover black and silver for the face and clamshell. I really like the Galway, I think its natural look wound up perfect for the otter.

Pattern: I've decided to make this my first paid pattern. If you want to make an otter of your own, you can buy the pattern on Ravelry for $4 (or view the Ravelry page for it and THEN buy it).

Helena Sweater for Maddie

OMG! A finished knitting project! This little sweater is a 1-year birthday present for my friend's daughter.

Pattern: This toddler sweater is based on the very adorable Helena pattern from Knitty, size 12 months. I changed the lace pattern on the sweater's skirt to the Alternating Leaf pattern from the Big Book of Knitting Stitch Patterns.

My modifications: To get 144 instead of 145 stitches for the modified pattern, I changed the increase row for setting up the skirt as follows:

Next Row RS: K3, M1, K5 6 times, M1, K4 13 times, M1, K5 6 times, M1, K3. 144 sts.

I worked the Alternating Leaf pattern for 3 pattern repeats.

I ran out of yarn on the project, and I didn't want to go buy more - so I had to tick back and make the bottom shorter after I'd followed directions for the hem. I changed the cute bumpy bottom edge for a garter stitch edge to match the button band, but I did keep the bumpy edge on the sleeves.

I also decided on buttons instead of the tie closures.

Materials: 3 balls of Plymouth Baby Bunny, in color 204 (light blue), which I bought at Monarch Knitting in Pacific Grove, CA. I used every last bit of the 3 balls. I liked the yarn a lot, it's super soft and very easy to work with. Also, I used 2 small white heart shaped buttons. Knitted with size 6 and size 3 needles.

I'm really happy with the way the sweater came out, and it fit its recipient pretty perfectly, with a little room for growth. Very neat to watch the yoke take shape, and I love how quickly projects for babies go by.

Brendon's doing the Jitterbug

Yarn: Colinette Jitterbug, plus remnants of Koigu KPM

Pattern: A top down 3x1 rib with short row heel and standard toe.  

Brendon picked out this yarn (which looks somewhat more brown in person) at Monarch Knitting on a pre-Christmas visit.  These socks proved to be an exercise in proper yardage estimation... I was not planning on contrasting colored heels and toes.  That's right: I finished the first sock and got to halfway through the second foot before realizing, "I don't think 1 skein is enough!"  So I got to frog up to above the heels of both and redo the heels and feet.  

But sometimes a silly mistake like that turns out nice in the end, because I'm rather happy with the way they came out.

Sock Exchange

Some time ago (let's not say how long.. "during the past calendar year" will suffice), Bethany and I did a sock exchange.

Bethany and I have been friends forever and ever. If you don't know her, you can introduce yourself at her blog. She is a brilliant and passionate and creative and inspiring person, and her friendship means a lot to me. We should all remind our friends once in a while that we love them, and when you and your friend are both knitters, sock exchanges are a pretty fine way of doing just that.

The socks I made for Bethany are made from Madeline Tosh "Somewhat Solid" Sock in Scarlet, which I bought from kPixie. (This was NOT the Unfortunate Purchase from kPixie that I wrote about a while ago.) The pattern was inspired by a pair of designs from Stitchionary 2 and worked out with the use of lots of math and graph paper.

Somewhere, I still have that piece of graph paper - so I guess if anyone is interested I could probably find it and come up with a written pattern. So let me know if anyone out there absolutely needs this to happen.

These socks were a lot of fun to make, and the itty bitty cable design kept it stimulating. Plus I really like the Madeline Tosh yarn. Approximately as much as Shibuiknits, which is probably my favorite sock yarn.

* * *

The socks that Bethany made for me are also of her own design. They are adorned with runes (blow up the above picture to see one) that make them very special and original. Bethany used KnitPicks Essential which she lovingly dyed herself with assorted flavors of Kool-Aid.


The fact that the two pairs wound up being very nearly the exact same color even though all details of color and pattern were kept secret from the recipients... well, I'll call it a testament to our linked psyches.

Octopus of Reality

I know I've given you crocheted cephalopods before - but this one is meant for a baby, not a kitty, and is totally cuter. Modest, aren't I? But the cuteness made me squirm even whilst making it! I mean, look at it!

"Oh, hi - just swimming along here in the ocean..."

My very pregnant friend has an undersea-themed nursery, and this is my contribution. Baby is coming any day now and I'm pleased to have this happy little invertebrate done in time for her arrival. This post's title, by the way, is an inside joke with my mom based on a Passat commercial a few years ago (anybody?).

If you want one too, here is the pattern, with two disclaimers:
1) It's been so long since I did crocheting, I may not have my terminology right, so please forgive me; and
2) Any similarities to your stuffed octopus pattern are unintentional. I looked at a few examples but didn't directly copy any of them, at least that I'm aware of.

Materials:
- 1 ball (the WHOLE ball) Rowan All-Seasons Cotton (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 50g), #217 "Lime Leaf." It's soft, it works up nicely, it comes in adorable colors, and it's machine washable!
- A small amount of scrap worsted weight yarn in a contrasting color, machine washable please, for the face. In this case some Berroco Pure Merino Heather in color "Tyrolean Alps."
- US G crochet hook.
- Polyfill, or alternate stuffing of your choice. Also machine washable.


Pattern:

*** I worked mine in a spiral, but if you prefer your crocheting to be joined evenly at each row, feel free to adapt as necessary.

HEAD/BODY:
Chain 2.
1 - Work 4 single crochets in 2nd chain from hook.
2 - 2 single crochets in each stitch - 8 total.
3 - (1 half double crochet (hdc) in next stitch, 2 hdcs in next stitch) around - 12 total.
4 - Repeat row 3 - 18.
5 - (1 hdc each in next 2 stitches, 2 hdcs in next stitch) around - 24.
6 - Repeat row 5 - 32.
7 - (1 hdc each in next 3 stitches, 2 hdcs in next stitch) around - 40.
8 & 9 - Work even in single crochet.
10-13 - Work even in hdcs.
14 & 15 - Work even in single crochet.
16 - (1 hdc each in next 3 stitches, hdc next 2 stitches together) around - 32.
17 - Work even in single crochet and finish off, leaving a long tail for attaching tentacles.


TENTACLES (make 8):
Chain 2.
1 - Work 4 single crochets in 2nd chain from hook.
2 - 2 single crochets in each stitch - 8 total.
3 - (1 sincle crochet in next stitch, 2 single crochets in next stitch) around - 12 total.
4-11 - Work even in single crochet. Finish off.


BOTTOM:
Chain 2.
1 - Work 4 single crochets in 2nd chain from hook.
2 - 2 single crochets in each stitch - 8 total.
3 - (1 single crochet in next stitch, 2 single crochets in next stitch) around - 12 total.
4 - Repeat row 3 - 18.
5 - (1 single crochet each in next 2 stitches, 2 single crochets in next stitch) around - 24.
6 - Repeat row 5 - 32. Finish off.


FINISHING:
How you do the facial features are up to you. In fact, if you leave it without a face, it's still pretty darn cute.

"Here is my backside, or, the no-face version."

But, if you want a face like mine - the eyes are done just like the start of the tentacles or bottom piece:
Chain 2.
1 - Work 4 single crochets in 2nd chain from hook.
2 - 2 single crochets in each stitch - 8 total.
Then attach to head/body doing your best to get the edges of the eyes to lie flat. I think the sparkles, a simple X using the body color, add a nice touch. Then eyebrows and mouth are embroidered on, going over each line several times and attempting approximate symmetry.

Attaching everything together takes just a little bit of patience. I used single crochets to join 4 stitches of each tentacle to the bottom piece (32 stitches), and the next 2 stitches at each end of the tentacle to the next tentacle. At this point you'll get a flower shape and can start stuffing each tentacle. Then I used slip stitches to join the remaining 32 tentacle stitches to the head/body, pausing before working the last several stitches to finish up with stuffing. Finish off and hide all the ends inside.

"Flower Power!"

Pomatomus for Mom

(Or, "Po-Mom-tomus")

Remember this teaser? Well, that lovely yarn became #2 of 2 total knitted Christmas gifts. Yes, it is February and I'm just getting my Christmas knitting up for display. Oopsie. Where does the time go?

Well, anyway, here they are - Pomatomus Socks for Mom!

Pattern: Pomatomus by Cookie A. from Knitty's Winter '05 issue. (Cookie A. apparently keeps a collection of Pomatomuses - I'll have to submit mine!) I really enjoyed working this pattern - my favorite socks I've made thus far. It was pretty exciting watching it develop so mysteriously on the first sock, and by the second the pattern was completely logical. Stimulating, but not as challenging as they look!

Yarn: Shibuiknits Sock in "Midnight" - 2 skeins. I like the yarn a lot, it feels great and comes in gorgeous colors. My one issue is that the striping pattern that developed wasn't quite what I expected - you can see what I mean especially well in the following picture - but it's certainly livable. I will purchase more of this yarn in the future.

Game Day

My dad is a big Packers fan. I know they just got knocked out of the playoffs, and that is very unfortunate - not least because now this post is very poorly timed. But, this quick knit was a Christmas gift for my dad, and I've already let a month slip by since Christmas and I can't very well wait for the next football season. Besides, if you're fast, you could adjust the colors and decoration and make this felted football for your own team in time for the Big Game.

This was a bit of a last-minute, can't-come-up-with-anything-for-dad gift, but I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. I think it makes a good guy gift, whether he uses it as a pillow or for horsing around. It would probably also be great for kids.

I couldn't find a pattern for a felted football, so I made up my own. Once I got all the pieces done and felted, well, they didn't quite fit together like I anticipated - because felted pieces shrink more vertically than horizontally. (And yes, I knew that, but I didn't do quite enough to compensate.) That's what I get for not swatching. Fortunately, felted pieces can be trimmed... So, the pattern below is what, on reflection, I believe I should have done. Therefore, no guarantees that it'll actually work - sorry!

Yarn: Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted (or other worsted weight non-superwash wool). I used one skein each of "Wild Mustard" and "Christmas Green," but you may adjust your colors to match your favorite team!

Needles: Size 8 straights.

Construction: This ball is made in four "orange peel" segments, felted separately, and then sewn together. The logo was embroidered on after felting - as you can see, my embroidery skills are mediocre at best, but Green Bay's emblem is pretty basic. If you prefer to work your decoration in intarsia form, well, you can either search the 'net for a chart or create your own!


Pattern:
With Color A, CO 4.
Row 1 - P all.
Row 2 - Sl 1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Row 3 - Sl 1, p to end.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until 24 sts total.
Change to Color B, continue repeating these 2 rows for 6 rows - 30 sts total.
Change back to Color A, repeat these 2 rows for 6 rows - 36 sts total.
Work even in stockinette (slipping first stitch of each row) for 49 rows, ending after a RS row.
Next row, sl 1, p to end.
Following row, sl 1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these two rows for 6 rows - 30 sts total.
Change to Color B, continue repeating these 2 rows for 6 rows - 24 sts total.
Change back to Color A, continue repeating until 4 sts remain.
BO.

Make four total pieces, alternating which color is A and which is B.
Felt the pieces, decorate them as you see fit, and sew together. Stuff with polyfill and enjoy!

Spring Things, in December

For a few days before Christmas, B and I treated ourselves to a little trip to New Orleans. B went to college at Tulane, and other than Katrina relief operations with his ship, this was the first time he had been back since graduation in '04. Needless to say this trip involved quite a range of emotion, but additionally it involved a bit of knitting.

One of the highlights of the trip, planned well in advance, was a posh dinner at Restaurant August, owned by Chef John Besh - who was recently the runner-up for (and ought to have won) the Next Iron Chef series on Food Network. This dinner necessitated dressing up really fancy, and all of the dresses that I own (that I still like and that currently fit) are sleeveless. Rather than buy a new dress, I decided I would make a nice shawl, because it isn't too very cold in New Orleans in December, and a shawl ought to provide the perfect amount of warmth. Especially if it was made from alpaca.

Pattern: Spring Things Shawl. No changes to the pattern. Yes, I know it's not springtime, but I really liked the pattern a lot.

Yarn: Alpaca Cloud (lace weight 100% baby alpaca) from KnitPicks, in "Horizon Heather," 1 skein. (The pattern cost more than the yarn did!) The actual color wasn't quite true to how it appeared on my monitor, but my goodness is this stuff soft!

Time Spent: Honestly, just a little over a week, plus blocking/drying time.

I had never done any real lace knitting before. Certainly nothing to this scale. And before blocking, I wasn't extremely convinced this would turn out.

Before blocking.

But water + animal fiber = miracle, and here is the end result:

Back

Detail

The total look (I really like this picture)

I probably need to work on my pinning-out skills. My points didn't come out as pointy as I would have liked, and the trip inside the suitcase didn't do them any favors. Actually, B's ship is throwing its holiday party this evening, and I will be wearing the same ensemble (don't tell anybody) - I reblocked the shawl this week for the event, and the points did get a lot pointier.

Aside from that issue, I really like this project, and while I don't have much everyday need for shawls, in the future I may be seeking out more complex shawl patterns just for the sake of the experience and challenge, and perhaps a bit for the pride in the end result.


By the way, we had a great time on our trip. New Orleans does, admittedly, still have a long way to go before it's back to its full glory - but it's getting there. Oh, AND, we got to meet Chef Besh. Briefly. He looked just like he did on TV, and it was way cool.

Here are some gratuitous vacation photos.

Bourbon Street at dusk

Balconies

Mandy's Socks

That's right - another pair of socks! Again, using Koigu KPPPM (P439), again using the construction elements (toe and heel) from the "On-Your-Toes Socks" pattern by Ann Budd in the Summer Interweave Knits, with a couple of basic cables added. (Haha, basic cable.)

These were commissioned by a girl at work. You could probably guess that her name was Mandy. And now I no longer work with her... So now I guess they are my socks. Don't worry, she was going to pay for them upon completion - at my suggestion. Good thing I love purple!

Koigu Socks

Pattern: "On-Your-Toes Socks" by Ann Budd in the Summer Interweave Knits. The only difference is that mine have a ribbed foot and leg, B's have a plain stockinette foot with ribbed leg.

Yarn: Koigu - Mine are KPPPM color 608 (2 skeins), B's are KPM color 4000 (3 skeins).

I Love Koigu. What else can I say? The colors are gorgeous, and what's arguably an even better feature, these socks have been through the washing machine - the red ones several times now - and held up great. (Those red ones were finished literally a couple of months ago.)

And while the pattern is a little bit basic, toe-up socks are great fun, and the structural elements - toe, heel - came out beautifully.

Jax Camisole

I was inspired by the heat of Florida summertime to create this warm-weather project. Admittedly, it is probably a bit late in the season to post a pattern like this one. I finished this top in April. It's amazing it's getting posted at all.

This camisole is a fairly straightforward top, embellished with a couple of simple slip-stitch motifs to add visual and structural interest, done in a luxurious, lustrous mercerized cotton. Mine is made to fit my 36" bust, but the shaping should be easily adaptable to fit and flatter your own body shape. It begins with a waist band made made to fit the wearer; then, picking up along the edge, the top is formed with strategic increases and decreases and shoulder straps mirroring the waist band pattern; and finally, picking up around the opposite waist band edge, the bottom is added.


Size: To fit a 36" bust

Yarn: ONLine Linie 12: Clip, 100% cotton, Color 168 - Teal (3 skeins)

Needles: US 6

Gauge: 24sts x 24 rows = 4" in SS

NOTE: My BOs are done in k1p1 bind-off, for purely aesthetic reasons (to keep the chain-edge out of view). If you prefer, you may do standard BOs.
Stitch patterns come from the Big Book of Knitting Stitch Patterns.

WAIST BAND:

CO 8 sts

k3, p2, k3, turn

Row 1 (RS): p3, wyif sl 2 pwise, p3

Row 2 (WS): k3, p2, k3

Repeat these 2 rows until band measures 36" when stretched slightly (alternately, long enough to fit over the bust and lie around the rib cage).

Graft, or BO and sew ends together.

TOP:

With circular needles, beginning at seam, pick up and knit around band edge: (appx) 125 sts

Increase for bust:

Row 1: Place marker (#1) at beg of row. *k3, m1, k4, m1* - repeat around, placing marker (#2) after 40 sts and marker (#3) after 40 more (this is the front of the shirt), then work 80 sts as established to end of rnd (back of the shirt).

Row 2, & even-numbered rows through Row 10: k even

Row 3: k 12, m1, k to last 3 sts before marker #2, m1, k 3 to marker. k 3, m1, k to last 12 sts before marker #3, m1, k 12 to marker. k even across back.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 7: k 12, m1, k 8, m1, k 13, m1, k 8, m1, k 3 to marker #2. k 3, m1, k 8, m1, k 13, m1, k 8, m1, k 12 to marker #3. k even across back.

Row 9: k 12, m1, k 9, m1, k 15, m1, k 9, m1, k 3 to marker #2. k 3, m1, k 9, m1, k 15, m1, k 9, m1, k 12 to marker #3. k even across back.

Row 11: k 12, m1, k 10, m1, k 17, m1, k 10, m1, k 3 to marker #2. k 3, m1, k 10, m1, k 17, m1, k 10, m1, k 12 to marker #3. (56 sts per side of front.) k 30, ssk, k 16, k2tog, k 30 to end.

Next Row: k even across front; after marker #3, k 30, BO 18 sts.

*Top will now be worked back & forth rather than in the round; next row begins here.*

Bust:

Row 1 (RS): k 30 to marker #1. k 12, m1, k to last 3 sts before marker #2, m1, k 3. k3, m1, k to last 12 sts before marker #3, m1, k 12 to marker. k 21, ssk, k 7. turn.

Row 2 (WS): p 8; place these 8 sts on stitch holder (for strap). p to marker #3. p even across front. p 21, p2tog, p 7. turn.

Row 3: k 8; place these 8 sts on stitch holder (for strap). k to marker #1. k 12, m1, k to last 3 sts before marker #2, m1, k 3 to marker. k 3, m1, k to last 12 sts before marker #3, m1, k 12 to marker. (60 sts per side of front.) k 10, ssk, k 9. turn.

Row 4: BO 10 sts at beginning of row. p 10 to marker. p even across front. p 10, p2tog, p 9. turn.

Row 5: BO 10 sts at beginning of row. k 10 to marker. k even across front. after last marker, ssk, k 8 to end. turn.

Row 6: BO 9 sts at beginning of row. remove marker #3. p even across front. after last marker, p2tog, p 8 to end. turn.

Row 7: BO 9 sts at beginning of row. remove marker #1. k even across front to last 10 sts, k2tog, k to end. turn.

Row 8: BO 9 sts at beginning of row. p even to last 10 sts, ssp, p 8 to end. turn.

Next Row: BO 9 sts at beginning of row. k 2, ssk, k to last 4 sts before marker, k2tog, k 2. attach 2nd ball of yarn; with new yarn, k 2, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k 2.

*Front will now be separated into left/right fronts; continue to work both sides simultaneously, using separate balls of yarn, to ensure the two halves match.*

Decreasing for bust:

Row 1 and all WS/odd-numbered Rows: p even.

Row 2: k 2, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat on 2nd half.

Row 4: k 2, ssk, k 9, ssk, k 16, k2tog, k 9, k2tog, k 2. Repeat.

Row 6: k 2, ssk, k 8, ssk, k 14, k2tog, k 8, k2tog, k 2. Repeat.

Row 8: k 2, ssk, k 7, ssk, k 12, k2tog, k 7, k2tog, k 2. Repeat. 34 sts remain per half.

Row 9: p even.

Decreasing toward shoulder straps:

RS - "RS Dec Row": k 2, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k 2. Repeat on 2nd half.

Work RS Rows as RS Dec Rows and WS Rows even until 24 sts remain per half, ending after a RS Row.

Next Row ("WS Dec Row"): 1st half: p to last 4 sts, ssp, p2. 2nd half: p2, p2tog, p to end.

Continue to work, alternating WS Dec Row and RS Dec Row until 16 sts remain per half, ending after a WS Row.

Switch back to working RS Dec Rows and WS Even Rows until 8 sts remain per half, ending after a WS Row.

Shoulder Straps:

RS Rows: k1, p2, wyif sl 2 pwise, p2, k1.

WS Rows: k3, p2, k3.

Work these 2 rows until each strap measures 14" slightly stretched (or, if you can try the shirt on at this point, long enough to comfortably reach the held sts on the back).

Last WS row, p even, then graft to sts on holders. The piece should resemble a bra at this point.

Optional (but recommended):To reduce the amount of curling around the top edge, with crochet hook of comparable size, work a single row of single crochet stitches around all top edges.

BOTTOM:

With circular needles, beginning at seam, pick up and knit around band edge: (appx) 125 sts.

Increase Row: *k 3, m1, k 4, m1* repeat around, placing marker at beginning of row and after 80 sts to separate front and back - 160 sts total.

Pattern = Fabric Stitch w/ Slip Stitch Edge:

Row 1: sl 1st st kwise; *wyif sl 1 pwise, k1* to last st; sl 1 st kwise.

Row 2: sl 1 st pwise; k to last st; sl 1 st pwise.

Row 3: k 1; *k 1, sl 1 st pwise* to last st; k 1.

Row 4: k across.

Row 1 = Setup Row: Back - k 25, place marker, work Row 1 of patt across 30 sts, place marker, k 25 to marker. Front - k 16, place marker, work Row 1 of patt across 16 sts, place marker, k 16, place marker, work Row 1 of patt across 16 sts, place marker, k 16.

Continue to work as established: Back - k 25, work patt between markers, k 25; Front - k 16, work patt between markers, k 16, work pattern between markers, k 16.

Continue in this manner until bottom measures 8" long, ending after row 4 of pattern.

Hip shaping:

Increase Row: Back - k 8, m1, knit/work in patt as established between markers to last 8 sts of back, m1, k 8. Front - repeat.

Alternate this increase row with 1 regular row for a total of 4 increase rows; end after row 4/regular row.

Work 1 row p even, with 1 additional m1 to achieve an odd # of total sts.

Work in seed st for 1". BO in patt (k1 p1 BO).

F'Argyle Socks

These socks are a very basic sock pattern embellished with a simple "Faux Argyle" - or "F'Argyle" - pattern band and contrasting color heel and toe. If you've never tried two-color knitting before, this might be a good place to start. They originally were supposed to have a more complex pattern around the ankle; then I discovered that stranding that stretches is beyond my personal knitting limits. So, this is what I wound up with. Fits an average size man's foot.

Yarn: KnitPicks Essential Sock Yarn (75% Superwash Wool, 25% Nylon) - 2 balls Ash (MC), 1 ball Navy (CC)

Needles: US Size 1 & 3 (DPNs or circulars depending on your preferred sock-making method)

Gauge: appx. 36 sts x 24 rows = 4"

Pattern:
(Warning: I realize the pattern may not be written using perfect terminology, so let me know if it doesn't make any sense.)

With MC and size 1 needles, CO 84 sts.

Cuff: Work in the round in K2P2 ribbing for 1.5".

Leg: Change to SS and continue for 1".

Pattern Band: Switch to size 3 needles (to accommodate for non-stretchiness of stranding), attach CC, and work pattern (7 reps around) over next 13 rows.
(Black = Navy/CC, White = Ash/MC)

Leg (Cont'd): Switch back to size 1 needles. Within the next few rows, dec 4 sts = 80 sts total, and if necessary, rearrange your needles so that the "jog" in the pattern lies in the center of the back of the sock.

Work in SS for 3" or until leg of sock is desired length.

Heel: Divide sts in half, front and back, 40 sts per half. Place 40 front sts on stitch holder. Attach CC, K 1 row even across back, then turn, sl 1st st, P across, turn. Work heel flap as follows:
Row 1 - *Sl 1, K1* across
Row 2 - Sl 1st st, P across
Row 3 - Sl 1st st, *Sl 1, K 1* to last st, K 1
Row 4 - Sl 1st st, P across
Repeat these 4 rows until heel flap meas 2.25"

Turn heel - K across 23 sts, SSK, K1, turn. P 8, P2tog, P1, turn. Continue to work in this manner, slipping 1st st of each row, decreasing across the gap, until all sts have been worked - 24 sts remain on needle. Cut CC.

Pick Up row: With MC, pick up 21 sts along side of heel flap; K even across 24 heel sts, pick up 21 sts along opposite side of heel flap, K even across 40 front sts. Arrange needles as makes you comfortable depending on your sock-knitting method, keeping 40 designated front sts.

Foot:
beg of rows = beg of back "half"
Dec row - K 1, SSK, K to last 3 sts of back "half," K2tog, K 1. K front even.

Alternate 1 dec row, 1 K even row, until 40 sts remain on back half.

Continue to work even in SS until foot measures appx. 2" less than the intended recipient's foot.

Toe:
Dec row - (Back) K 1, SSK, K to last 3 sts of back half, K2tog, K 1; (Front) K 1, SSK, K to last 3 sts of front half, K2tog, K1

Alternate 1 dec row, 1 K even row, for 1", then change to CC and continue to alternate 1 dec row, 1 K even row, until 20 sts remain each half/40 sts total.

Graft toe together and weave in ends.

Zigzag Necklace

After the hoodie was all put together and soaked in the tub (and yes, I know I still owe another post on that sweater!), I figured it was time to craft in a slightly new direction.

Beaded wire crochet!


Pattern: "Zigzag Necklace" from Nancie Wiseman's Crochet With Wire, published by Interweave Press.

Materials: Artistic Wire, 28-gauge, in Plum; crystal beads; clasp and findings; size 4 hook.

Time Spent: A couple of hours.

My mother in law gave me this book for my birthday last year - along with all the supplies to make this necklace. And it slipped to the bottom of my stash. Oops. But, hey, I finished before my birthday this year! I hadn't ever crocheted or knitted with wire before, but I enjoyed it. Now I need to buy more wire so I can make more of the projects. (Does wire count against my vow to not purchase yarn until April? Hmm. Probably does.) I have another beaded crochet book (yarn/thread/fiber, not wire) that my former boss gave me that I also need to delve into. So many things on my project list...